As gold elephants gather dust…

Throughout Southeast Asia and India, something repeatedly bothered me, fogging my brain with a cloud of annoyance that grew in size with every temple, palace and shrine we visited. While walking through the Silver Pagoda within Cambodia’s Royal Palace complex in Phnom Penh, I couldn’t keep my big mouth shut any longer. “I don’t understand…

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Happy pizza, sad history

We were driving away from the Phnom Penh airport in our hired tuk-tuk when the driver turned around, at full speed mind you, and asked, “You like shooting? AK-47?” This was when I first realized Cambodia is a country where anything — ANYTHING — is possible for the right price. Our driver, Leap Theary, was…

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“Paging Mr. Petronas…”

In all honesty, I think we chose Kuala Lumpur as our next destination because the name sounded exotic. It didn’t matter anyway. We spent our first two days in the Malaysian capital in bed, recovering from Thailand’s parting gift to us: food poisoning. When we finally emerged from our hotel at the crossroads of Chinatown…

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Paradise and projectile vomiting

According to the in-flight magazine that inspired our trip to Railay, Krabi’s rock climbing is unparalleled.  Climbing enthusiasts dream about scaling the limestone cliffs surrounding the beaches here, and just about everywhere you look are people and monkeys dangling from seemingly impossible places. Our Lonely Planet guide had informed us that somewhere along the walkway…

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En route to paradise via tourist purgatory

Hat Prah Nang on Railay in southern Thailand probably fits the description of paradise for most people. White sand beaches line a calm turquoise sea where karst limestone cliffs rise strikingly hundreds of feet out of the water. This also happens to be the place where Her and I suffered the worst bout of food…

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“Oh my Buddha!”

We had been hiking, single-file, through the bamboo jungle of Khao Sok National Park for about an hour when a dreadful notion suddenly teased my over-active imagination: This was an ideal scenario for tour guides with malicious intent to rob us and leave us to wander helplessly in the wild. Anticipating wading through the chilly…

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Top-10 porter loads on the Everest Base Camp Trek

Nepal’s Sherpa population has served as the backbone of the country’s tourism industry ever since the first westerners set their sights on Mount Everest’s summit. Despite the passage of more than 150 years, Everest and her base camp remain isolated, the rough terrain preventing construction of true roadways or railways. Crude “airports” dotting the region…

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Why I’ll never look at my monopod the same way again

I’ve lived in Florida most of my life. Spiders generally don’t bother me. In fact, I keep a designated “spider cup” and junk mail envelopes handy for humanely relocating arachnid friends from our home to our garden. I like to imagine they appreciate my assistance reuniting them with their kin. Naked and dripping wet from…

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Surat Thani

Surat Thani is not a destination. For travelers it is a transit town used to reach places like Koh Samui, Koh Phangan or, in our case, Khao Sok.  There really isn’t much for tourists to do besides sleep for an evening and wake up early to catch a bus or a boat.  But that doesn’t…

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…Lest you become a sticky rice

I wiggled out of my shoes and mounted the steps of the Wat Phra Singh temple, one of Chiang Mai’s most venerated sites. After a week in Thailand, I was well aware that Buddhist monks are not allowed to touch women — or even directly accept anything a female attempts to hand them. And as…

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